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Volcanic Crater Wines Thrive on Lanzarote's Lunar Landscape

0 19-04-2024
Alex Romanenko 104
The distinctive winemaking process and environment of Lanzarote's  Volcanic Crater Wines

In the sweeping, jet-black expanse of Spain’s Lanzarote Island, an unconventional approach to viticulture has birthed the unique "Volcanic Crater Wines." This innovative method utilizes the natural hollows formed in volcanic ash to cultivate vines that produce distinct and flavorful wines. The process, deeply rooted in generations of ingenuity, harnesses the harsh and seemingly infertile volcanic terrain to cultivate grapes that reflect the island's unique terroir.

Engineering Success in Harsh Conditions

The vineyards on Lanzarote present a stark contrast to traditional grape-growing landscapes. Here, farmers dig hoyos, or conical hollows, into layers of volcanic ash to protect and nurture each vine. These craters, typically three meters wide and equally deep, are then lined with a thick layer of picón to retain moisture and regulate soil temperature. This method is particularly effective in Lanzarote’s arid climate, which sees less than 150mm of rainfall annually and faces frequent dust storms and intense trade winds.

A Taste of Volcano Island

Lanzarote’s wines, predominantly featuring the Malvasía Volcánica, a variety exclusive to the Canary Islands, offer a unique palate characterized by bold acidity and notes of green apple, lime, jasmine, and orange blossoms. Despite the challenging conditions, these Volcanic Crater Wines have gained acclaim for their crisp and well-balanced flavors, which sommeliers attribute to the mineral-rich volcanic soil and the innovative cultivation techniques.

The Human Element in Lanzarote Winemaking

The perseverance of Lanzarote's winegrowers is pivotal to the success of Volcanic Crater Wines. The cultivation process is labor-intensive, requiring meticulous manual labor as growers navigate the narrow paths into and out of each hoyo. The fruits of their labor are harvested in the intense heat of late July, a testament to the dedication required to produce these exceptional wines.

Looking to the Future

As the oldest winery in the Canaries, El Grifo, established in 1775, continues to lead by example, demonstrating that visionary practices can overcome environmental challenges. With a rising interest among younger generations and increased financial incentives, the future of Volcanic Crater Wines looks promising. As climate conditions evolve and the need for sustainable and adaptive farming techniques becomes more apparent, Lanzarote’s winemakers are poised to continue their legacy of innovation and excellence.

Preserving Traditional Practices

The ancient practice of using volcanic craters for vine cultivation on Lanzarote isn't just about overcoming climatic hardships; it's about preserving a part of cultural heritage. This method, refined over centuries, speaks to a deep understanding of the land and a commitment to sustainable agriculture. The winegrowers of Lanzarote not only maintain the traditions passed down through generations but also innovate to adapt to changing conditions.

Expanding the Reach of Lanzarote Wines

Despite the historical focus on local consumption, Lanzarote's winemakers have begun to broaden their horizons, aiming to place Volcanic Crater Wines on the global map. Through strategic marketing and the allure of their unique winemaking story, these wines are starting to capture the attention of international connoisseurs and tourists alike. Bodegas like Los Bermejos and Bodega Stratvs are at the forefront, pushing the boundaries of what can be achieved on this volcanic island.

Challenges and Opportunities Ahead

The path forward for Lanzarote’s wine industry is fraught with challenges, notably the effects of climate change. Reduced rainfall and more frequent calimas could potentially disrupt the delicate balance required for vine growth. However, these same challenges reinforce the island’s commitment to innovative agricultural practices. The adaptability of Lanzarote’s winemakers serves as a beacon for other regions facing environmental adversities.

Sommeliers and Critics Weigh In

Renowned sommeliers like Josep Roca have praised the unique qualities of Volcanic Crater Wines, noting their unexpected freshness and complex flavor profiles that defy the semi-desert climate’s typical expectations. Critics often debate the source of these flavors, whether from the minerality of the soil or the unique flora that contributes to the fermentation process. Regardless, the distinctiveness of these wines is universally acknowledged.

A Toast to Resilience

Lanzarote’s Volcanic Crater Wines embody the spirit of resilience and creativity. They are a product of a landscape that demands perseverance and a community that rises to meet that demand. As Lanzarote continues to cultivate its wine heritage, each bottle of Volcanic Crater Wine tells a story of triumph over adversity, inviting wine lovers around the world to partake in its rich, volcanic legacy. As we look to the future, the island's wine industry stands as a testament to what can be achieved when tradition blends with innovation, ensuring that the tale of Lanzarote's winemaking will be savored for generations to come.

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Alex Romanenko

Quebec, Canada

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